Gujo Hachiman

After an evening in a bar with Lou and Natsumi - eating the Japanese equivalent of tapas, it was an experience, my night on the tatami........The pillow - full of beans - didn't leave me feeling that way the next day. It was a fairly sleepless night. And doing everything at floor level can be quite challenging! I had to smile at the difference in the height of everything compared to my recent Amsterdam trip ( the Dutch are the tallest race apparently - and the mirrors in my hotel there were above my eye level!) Here, even I had to lean down to wash in the sink....
I was also a bit scared that the shared bath was non-segregated so I shot down dead on opening time at 5 and washed and plunged in haste! It made me appreciate my softie Western style set up at the Yoshidaya hotel where I left my bag until check in later on Tuesday. I started the day by doing a little sketch in some temple precincts - the tourist season is very much at an end so I was undisturbed.

Lou and I spent the rest of the hours on a trek in the forest - delightfully cool away from the heat of the day, we walked uphill past tumbling streams and waterfalls: that at least was the good thing about my wakeful night - I spent it listening to the water that flows everywhere in this town. As you wander the streets you realise it's flowing under gratings beneath your feet. Even the manhole covers celebrate Gujo's watery and fishy connections.We walked via 'Fish Lane' where for 100 yen you can buy food to feed the massive koi carp.

By the time we'd got back and felt hungry the lunchtime sessions at restaurants were over so we went and indulged ourselves at the local supermarket and brought back some tasty dishes to eat in my room - which is furnished with table, chairs and fridge. Not sure Tesco would have eel on noodles and rice, with a side salad of shredded cabbage,okra,daikon and carrot....Can't say I was entirely certain what my pudding was but it had sponge and a soya type custard with a hint of rum......

I'm really enjoying the pace here. I seem to have shifted sleeping hours from midnight to 9 a.m. so, as it gets dark by about 5.30 that doesn't leave the longest day. And Louise tends to go off and teach late afternoon or evening, so it means I can retire guilt-free to my quarters and read or blog or listen to BBC iplayer. It is rather weird listening to the Archers as I look out at Gujo castle and drink green tea.....
Bathing, as you know, is important and now I have my own pod of a bathroom with a mini-tub in which to soak; takes a bit of time to fill - but that's a commodity I have!

Wednesday, dawned beautifully clear and sunny again but having slept blissfully till 9 the day didn't really get going till 10.30. I wandered off and picked up a tourist 'passport' to the attractions. My first stop was the Muromachi-era style garden of a Zen temple designed by a priest. You can't walk in it - it's designed to be viewed from a sitting position under a covered loggia. The light was so perfect when I arrived, and the whole view so framed by the verandah structure, it was like looking at the most glorious painting. Additionally, photography is not allowed - which rather wonderfully makes one concentrate on observing closely. I did ask if I might return with a sketchbook - which was granted...so, we will see......

When Lou joined me we made the steep hillside climb up to the castle - originally 16th century but rebuilt after a fire. I shall remember the creaking of the timbers as we climbed higher and higher up the structure and the views opened up; the roofs of Gujo's houses spilling down the valley like another river.

Today is Thursday....I opened my eyes at seven and saw cloud and turned over...well, there had been a little message traffic in the night; looks like the Oxford house sale is on the way to completion!!

So my plans to capture the light of the Zen garden receded. I put on more layers - feeling a little less conspicuous amongst the Japanese tourists who have been wearing anoraks and hats even in the lovely sun and temperatures in the low 20s. It seems that wearing bare arms is not de rigueur - and certainly no cleavage. Japanese ladies avoid the sun like the plague and sunhats and umbrellas are deployed.
I treated myself to a hot coffee whilst waiting for Louise's awakening - and listened to the ubiquitous jazz that seems to play in most restaurants and bars here...I'm not complaining! If it's not jazz then it's gentle favourites from the musicals - all very calming and non-invasive. We were amused by Greensleeves starting up automatically at the top of Gujo Hachiman castle!

Anyway, today's adventures can wait to be posted tomorrow.....