My new place to stay has a toilet that raises the lid automatically and flushes for you when you're finished; not only that, it has 4 types of flush (one is oscillating - but I haven't tried it!) And also today, in the grounds of the Meiji shrine, I encountered my first loo with a soundtrack...as I peed the sound of running water and twittering birds started up - to spare my neighbour the sound of my own running water.....
Twittering birds are a common motif - their sound is played as you wait for the subway or as the lights change at an intersection. The idea of nature and countryside is obviously appealing to the city-dweller.
My very delightful host here in a district called Daikanyama, Jenny, has lived on and off in Tokyo for twenty years and says she does miss green spaces - and then drove me, via the famous Shibuya pedestrian multi-crossing, to the Meiji shrine to show me where she finds some in the heart of the city.
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| Sweet child at the shrine |
We wandered paths through trees around the shrine's perimeter, where the heat and light was filtered by leaves, and over greensward, ' like Hampstead Heath,' she said, and it was a bit.....also had a hint of Central Park as one looked up and saw skyscrapers on the fringes. By a replica teahouse there was also water, a little churned up by yesterday's rain but still quietly reflective.
A bit like me now, sitting in the sun on Jenny's balcony, as it sinks away. It's lovely to be somewhere where the sun is welcomed; most Japanese seem to shun it and sitting out in it is not done; balconies are for clothes drying.
Also, the scale of her apartment is absolutely massive compared to the capsule living I've been accustomed to!
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| View from my hotel balcony near Tsukiji fish market |
So, did I get to the fish market and the tourist attracting event of the daily tuna auction?
My day began at 5 a.m. and I strode bravely into the market complex amongst fast moving little trucks with no real idea of where I was headed. I'd snapped off several pictures - including one of great tuna chunks - when I was ever so politely apprehended by smartly uniformed security men carrying a note that said, in English, ' no entry to this area until after 9a.m.' With much bowing and scraping I humbly exited, past the way I should have entered. Displayed was a sign saying ' Due to yesterday's typhoon, there will be no tuna auction.' Ah well....
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| I think this might be whale..... |
And I can't say there'll be a next time, as the entire old market is due to move to new premises in spring 2015.
So, tomorrow is my last day...I think it'll comprise of a gentle discovery of this district as I don't feel a great need to rush off to do lots of sightseeing.
After all, I imagine I'll be in Japan again before too long........









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